Train to Varanasi

Well, the train to Varanasi was only 45 minutes late. That's pretty much early in India. While we were waiting, we met an American named Jen from New York. She had a ticket for another train and wanted to talk her way on our train, which was earlier. Second class was full, so we suggested she get on our car, which was third tier upper class. At this time of the year, there are usually seats in that class. Tamding did the negotiations with the conductor and she was able to get the train change and the upgrade without having to pay any money. Not even a bribe. She had already been to Varanasi and recommended a hotel (The Haifa in Assi Ghat), which we are now staying at.

The hotel is really nice. It's certainly the best I've stayed at in India. Tamding doesn't like to spend this kind of money (1100 rupees, or $28), but I'm paying anyway, so he had no choice. I wanted laundry service, a functioning bathroom, and the possibility of a fax machine. I'm not sure about the fax machine yet, but everything else is nice. The room features not only hot and cold running water, but the water actually turns on and off when you want it to. And we got clean towels, soap, and satellite TV with a clearly visible screen. Not only that, the plumbing is properly vented so there aren't even any strange smells. It's so classy that I'm pretty sure the electricity will even remain on for the duration of our stay. This is quite a step up for us. The hotel in Darjeeling was almost as nice, but the hot water came from a small heater that delivered only five minutes worth of hot water. Our other hotels have been of a much lower quality. The only potential problem is that we are not confirmed for tomorrow night. So we may have to move. But Jen assured us that the hotel across the street is of similar quality and price. If nothing else, I'll have clean clothes tomorrow.

I haven't seen much of Varanasi yet, but it seems nice. It's not as peaceful as Bodh Gaya, but it is much less dusty. Varanasi is on the Ganga river, so it's much more lush. Bodh Gaya was very dusty. When we were in the taxi with the Tibetan Monk in Bodh Gaya, a truck passed us and kicked up a huge dust cloud. The monk turned to me and said: "This is the gift of Bodh Gaya, everyone leaves with a cough." I still have that cough, but it will go away soon. Now, I'm off to find a fax machine for a patent application.